“A cuisine that knows what’s good for you”

Since the age of 33, Baptiste Thomas is the ruler of “Mylord” in Wallonia.

His brother, Christopher, joined him in 1988. A family adventure worthy of an Anderson tale.

How many Michelin-starred restaurants in France have failed the test of time? Too often trapped in tradition, never daring to question themselves?

At first, we were afraid; of the unknown, of the kitsch, of the outdated, and yet, that afternoon, in the little village of Ellezelles, we felt completely at ease. A terroir, an effervescent space, a tale that survived through the years, “My Lord” (with a British accent if you please) is all the above and more.

March in Belgium is the short season of the hop shoot, with its juicy stem and slight bitterness that can be cooked every which way. The sole is the one who took advantage of it here, with its hop shoot sabayon, chervil roots, fennel, and anise emulsion. Delicious. We also remember the Madeira emulsion, perfectly balanced on the bar fish and the roasted veal, both crisp and juicy, its juice elevated with Rodenbach (Flemish red beer).

Of course, we cannot forget the “piece de resistance” that too finds itself amongst the absent members of contemporary cuisine: the large aged-cheese cart that made eyes at us throughout the meal, from the entrance of the restaurant. We listened to Clara enumerate the 38 different varieties. We let our instincts guide us, stole a bite of the ones we didn’t dare chose from our neighbors’ plate, and came back for more.

 We would like to thank Bart Lamon, the house’s sommelier prodigy, who was able to sort through the 1800 wines by the bottle and bring out irresistible gems.

 

A tale in and of its time, both old-fashion and modern, and without a doubt unique.

 

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