Sayan Isaksson was born in Thailand and adopted in Sweden at the age of three months, where he has spent the rest of his life.
Now forty years old, the chef opened Esperanto over ten years ago. Then came Rakultur dedicated to sushi, and finally Shibumi in 2014, the isakaya bar in the basement of his bourgeois building. In order to discover Isaksson’s style, you have to take part in Esperanto’s religious-like experience. You are first welcomed into the foyer to the sound of Sigür Ros, perhaps as a way to give you time to prepare for the moment you are about to live: an inspiring candle-lit dinner, where each meticulous dish says a bit more about the
chef ’s personality. “I can’t distance myself from the kitchen,” he admits in his wobbly English filled with sincerity. The amuse bouches flooded the table, including a scrambled quail egg plated in its shell and a wagyu beef and truffle pie with an unforgettable crust.
At Isaksson’s place, the influences are diverse, the technique unbeatable. An entire moment
of the meal is dedicated to bread, of all origins, including a killer steamed bun, to be generously buttered.
Paradoxes are legion at Esperanto.
Sayan likes to remind you that, “gastronomically speaking, all languages are universal”. What more is there