As soon as you cross the threshold of this majestic white house in the heart of Notting Hill, you feel as if you have become a special guest.
The household is sumptuous and seems to have kept the blueprints of the past in order to better ensure the foundations of the present. Curtains, white tablecloths, even bell jars – the codes of a high-end restaurant are all here. They can be somewhat intimidating at first, but the attentive service and more importantly the young age of the establishment and the Australian chef, Brett Graham, quickly put you at ease.
Where other chefs tend to jostle their diners with bold compositions, Brett prefers balance, and common references. The foie gras is cooked with apples, a beautiful fall dish with grilled hazelnuts, artichokes and Jerusalem artichokes, the Scallop is raw and dressed with seaweed and cabbage, and the quail and chestnut purée and the deer and juniper sausage are both virile and sophisticated.
Brett’s dishes caress you; they satisfy the hedonist’s hunger who has come for his pleasure fix.
When the toasted golden brioche invites itself to our table, generously garnished with truffles and porcini mushrooms and incredibly smooth and ‘decadent’ as the Brits say, we gladly give in and take a bite.
The cheese plate, which has become too rare in restaurants, here becomes a magnificent canvas garnished with local rarities and inescapable necessities, adorned with fresh and dried fruits and biscuits.
To completely give in and go all the way, without taking any detours, is not an easy feat. But when the pillowy beignet arrives to conclude our meal, we don’t hesitate for an instant…