We immediately fell for Le Servan, for the warm and attentive welcome, the charming wooden bistro tables, the etherial painted ceiling, and the beautiful bouquet that adorns the massive bar.

We made sure to taste everything by sharing the three options on the lunch menu. Each dish was allowed its own onomatopoeia. And since we are bad students, well, we lost our notes. But we remember Tatiana Levha’s serene smile in the slightly open kitchen, and her sister Katia’s knowing glance as she recommended a glass of crisp and lively muscadet.

As lively as the condiments that accompanied the rosy and meaty pork, as refreshing as the herbs that are sprinkled everywhere, as evanescent as the dried bonito flakes, as comforting as the egg with smoked lardo, and as delicate as the pearly-white codfish.

Le Servan is vibrant, the dishes are full of generosity, all the way to the thinly sliced ribbons of comté cheese that lusciously lie on a bed of tender and perfectly seasoned greens. And how could we forget that apricot tart, with its crumbly sablé crust, juicy and tart fruit, with hints of almond and a beautiful spoonful of fresh cream.

Tatiana Levha’s cuisine moves you with its seeming simplicity. The discreet young chef whom we met alongside Pascal Barbot seems to have found her wings…