Septime €€€

80 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris

+33 (0)1 43 67 38 29

80 euros

Bertrand Grébaut and Théo Pourriat have made “Septime” into a creative and vibrant mothership, which has blossomed around “Clamato” and “La cave”. And yet, despite their success, the two acomplices haven’t changed. They have stayed the same, kind, modest, reserved, and shy;  a sign of fundamentally good people. We would love to go to their “grand restaurant” every day, to revel in its false simplicity paired with a constant and continual creativity, freshness,  and devotion to the ingredients that are never meek, always right. We immediately fell for the innate coherence between the restaurant and its kitchen, the wine and the dishes, the friendly service and the engaged diner. 

We were instantly transfixed by Bertrand Grébaut’s cuisine, his impeccable cuissons, like his perfectly “confit” bonito luxuriating on a pillow of parsley, crisp fennel and wild greens. His combinations are sensible and sensitive, astonishing but never convoluted. His “variations around the leek” is breathtaking with balance: young crunchy leeks, a slightly spiced sauce gribiche with coriander and tarragon, marbles of fish roe, and grated cauliflower and oysters. First you taste the sea, and then realize that not one ingredient takes over or overshadows the rest. A beautiful and timeless creation. An already  powerful memory. Bertrand Grébaut and his team are makers of such memories.